Back to the tales about "tripping" around in Southern Mexico

My last blog described the highlights of our day at Palenque and our visit to the Mayan ruins.  The next part of our trip began with an early start. Backpacks strapped to our backs, the five of us left our hotel and made the short journey to the local bus station.  The short walk was without incident until we had to cross the main road in front of the bus station. Waiting for a gap in the morning traffic, we dodged the potholes and puddles of water and headed across the road.

Well!! as I made my way across, I noticed a uneven lump in the middle of the road, and when Aaron slipped on it a little, I remember thinking, careful!!! However, before I knew it I had fallen flat on my face backpack and bum in the air!!!   Fortunately, the local traffic managed to stop, and as my companions grabbed my arms and lifted me up, I could see the local taxi drivers shaking their heads and saying "gringa loca".  Nursing a bruised pride, (plus lots of other grazed and bruised bits) I limped the rest of the way across to the Bus stop.  Backpacks stowed underneath the Bus, we climbed on board the coach, making ourselves comfortable for the long trip from Chiapas through to the state of Yucatan to the east coast of Mexico and the town of Merida.

Merida is known as the "White City" (due to the large amount of limestone and white paint used on buildings in the city.  It is a charming, bustling colonial city which has been centre of Mayan culture for hundreds of years.  Once we had booked into our hotel, Steve and I set out to explore its narrow cobble stone streets.

Pancho's

We were immediately charmed by the city, and spent a couple of hours checking out the numerous artisan shops, delightful churches and the main plaza that was packed with Mexicans celebrating the Christmas-New Year holiday.


We met the others at the famous Pancho's Restaurant.  The atmosphere, service, drinks and food was excellent.  It was a great way to finish of a long day.  The evening was finished off when we were entertained by one of the waiters preparing the famous Mayan flaming coffee.  Check this link to see how it is made.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVWG9v9U81M.
The faint aniseed taste of the rich coffee, tickled my taste buds and helped me to forget the collection of bruises, scratches and sore spots were starting to emerge on the right side of my body, after my recent tripping episode.

Where has time gone???

This morning as I squeezed the last of my tube of Colgate Crema Dental con fluor, Max Fresh con Cristales Refrescantes (tooth paste) on to my toothbrush, I realised that it is nearly two months since we left Mexico.  My empty tube of toothpaste is a reminder that "yes I did have seven months away and I did have some great experiences".

I reflect on how quickly you are absorbed back into your old life style, and how I now need to stop every now and then and look at all my photos to remind me of my time away. I have slipped into the everyday hum drum of catching train and going to work very quickly. Though I must admit there is an underlying restlessness that only time or a new project will calm.

Next week, everyone who went overseas on the in-country studies program will be gathering together to reflect, celebrate, swap stories and relive our adventures.  I can't wait to hear about everyone's experiences.  This in mind, I must put pen to paper, or fingers to the key board and finish the tale of my Mexican  Adventure.  Stay tuned for more stories and pictures.

Palenque - Again Let the Pictures do the Talking

Palenque - Another Indiana Jones Moment!!!

Unfortunately for Steve, old "Montezuma's revenge" snuck in overnight and he was not at all well.  Leaving him with lollies to suck and dry biscuits for lunch, we said good bye and headed off on our next Indiana Jones Adventure.  It was such a shame that Steve was going to miss this part of our adventure.

Inside the underground ruins

trekking through the jungle

 After a short taxi ride we arrived at a clearing in the jungle and our guide was waiting for us, we were joined by another small group of travellers and the journey started.  The trek was for about an hour and a half making our way through the jungle, over streams and along muddy paths.  Our guide informed us that we were actually walking over Mayan ruins that had been covered by the jungle.  We were able to climb through a small hole down inside one of the buildings to see how well preserved they were.

Hot, damp and muddy, we finally came out at the main ruins.  Wow!!! Of all the ruins that I have visited in Guatamala and Mexico I think these were one of my favorites.  It was such a shame that Steve was unable to be there with us.  Duty bound I set out to take as many photos as I could so he would be able to see it when I got back to the hotel.  (as if I needed an excuse to take more pictures!!!).

Actually, again there were large numbers of tourists, due to it being holiday break in Mexico. Our guide warned us to climb carefully as a tourist had fallen the previous day and broken their arm.  Noted!! I thought, given my previous record I was extra careful as I climed the three main temples. 

A wet Boxing Day as we journey to Palenque

We had spend christmas eve having a few quiet drinks in a very nice bar/restaurant in a trendy area not far from our hotel.We couldn't get over how busy the centre of town was.  There were lots of families out eating in restaurants or just enjoying the "fresh" night air.  As we were quite weary from our long day and lack of sleep the previous night, we called it an early night.

Boxing Day greeted us with grey skies and as we started our trip to Palenque, the rain began to fall.  As we passed through the small pueblos (villages) we noticed many of them had signs and graffiti supporting the Zapatista Movement.  Our van driver who lived locally pointed out the Zapatista strongholds as we passed through.

It was very noticable that these were very poor villages, with small wooden house, basic school buildings etc.  After a couple of hours of driving down the mountain side, and passing some spectacular scenery we stopped at the popular tourist spot of Agua Azul.  It was interesting to find that we not only had to pay entry to the park, but we were stopped at another roadblock where we had to pay money to the Zapatista Group.

Even though the weather was very miserable, the place was packed with Mexican Tourists on their annual holidays.  It was such a shame that it was wet because the waterfall and blue-green pools were really beautiful and on a good day it would have been great to have a swim there.  After having lunch here we continued onto the town of Palenque.  Certainly a contrast to San Cristobal, there wasn't a lot to see here.  However, we were excited at the prospect of visiting the nearby Mayan Ruins tomorrow.


 

Christmas Lunch and Zapatistas

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Once back in San Cristobal, we did a walking tour of the local markets, back streets, as well as visiting the Zapatista Centre.  This was a cafe, museum and small shop that sold craft and art work from the local indigenous people.  Unfortunately the Museum was closed.  I was particularly interested in this as in my previous subject at Uni (Social Change) I had written an essay on the Zapatistas.

Sub Commander Marcos

San Cristobal was the town where the EZLN (Zapatista Army of National Liberation) or Zapatistas for short, commenced their campaign of fighting for the rights of the local indigenous peoples.  Their leader was and still is Sub-Commander Marcos.

  The Zapatistas briefly took control of the town in 1994, they were arguing against the free-trade agreement with the US, which made it difficult for local indigenous corn growers to sustain their well-being. Though the Zapatista's methods were controversial to say the least, they definitely brought the plight of the indigenous people to the world's attention, and to this day they are still a very active political group.They were the first group of revolutionaries that used the Internet to spread the word of their fight, and through this campaign they received support from all corners of the world. They were also one of the first groups in Mexico that gave equal rights to women and highlighted the position of women in Mexico society.  They are still very active in Chiapas.  There was a lot of their merchandise available and many incidences of political slogans painted on walls. We were going to witness more evidence of this in our next days travel.

After our walking tour, we had worked up quite an appetite and it was time for "Christmas Lunch".  Johanna took us to a local restaurant that served traditional food and we all enjoyed huge bowls of soup accompanied by fresh avocado, chopped up chillies, onions and tortillas.  So different to what we were used to eating for Christmas lunch.  Tasty all the same!

After lunch it was time for the traditional Christmas afternoon sleep!!  and back in our rooms there was some good news!!  HOT WATER in our showers!!

Zinacatan, Chiapas

After a very squashy 10 minute drive our taxi arrived near the church and main square of the village of Zinacatan.  Again the villages here have their unique traditional costume, made from local wools with the brilliant and dominate colours of purple, pink and blue. Everyone in the village was dressed up in their best gear for the Christmas celebrations.  Amazing!!

As soon as we crossed the square we were met by one of the beautifully dressed women asking if we would like to see one of the local women weaving the fabric for the costumes.  She directed a small girl who was around 12 years old to take us down to one of the local homes.  There was quite a fuss when we arrived, the woman who did the weaving was inside having a meal.  There was a mad rush, and scurry as everyone raced around getting the show room ready for us, within 5 minutes the lady was out, wiping the food from her mouth and setting up her weaving.   She was very sweet and very happy for us to take her picture.

On of the young girls delighted in dressing us up in the local costumes.  A very good tactic, how could you refuse to buy something when they went to so much trouble. After our fashion parade and a couple of purchases we headed back up to the main plaza in front of the church, where many of the villages were celebrating with pantomines and fireworks.

Men making firecrackers

In the centre of the plaza there was a group of men sitting on small stools stuffing gunpowder and explosives into home made crackers, and then as soon as they had made enough to make a good bang!! they would let them off without any warning.

What a morning!!! complete sensory overload, the smells of the pine needles and incense in the churches, the brilliant colours of the local costumes and the sounds of the local music and dancing and of course the fireworks!!!  A little after mid day, we crammed into another taxi and headed back to San Cristobal for Christmas lunch.